After 30 years in coffee, there are moments that make you pause and take stock. They tend to come quietly — walking alone through the roastery after hours, looking at a bag of green beans, a certificate, a price per kilo, and thinking about the long journey behind each one.
That moment, for us, came a few years into building Bodacious Coffee. We were sourcing well, roasting carefully, doing everything a good coffee company is supposed to do. But somewhere between the farm and our roastery, the story had gone missing. We could tell you the origin country. We couldn't tell you the person.
So, we went looking for them.
What "direct trade" actually means
Direct trade gets used as a marketing word a lot these days, so let's be plain about what it means for us: no brokers, no anonymous lots, no certificate standing in for a relationship. It means sitting across from the person who grew the coffee, negotiating a price with them directly, and coming back year after year — not just for the beans, but for the relationship.
It's slower. It's more expensive in the short term. It requires trust that takes years to build and about five minutes to lose. And it is, without question, the only way we've found to actually know what we're selling.
Finding Belantih
Our direct trade relationship centres on Belantih Coffee Farm, high in the hills of Bali, where the volcanic soil and the altitude do a lot of the hard work that machines can't replicate. It's a family-run operation, the kind where the person who picks the cherries and the person who decides how they're processed are often the same person, or a close relative of theirs.
At the centre of that farm is Mr Wayan — a producer, a friend, and honestly one of the nicest people in the industry. Farm visits with him rarely go the way we plan them. We arrive with questions about processing methods and leave three hours later having talked about family, weather patterns, and why this year's harvest tastes different from last year's. That's not a detour from the coffee. That is the coffee.
Why this matters more than a nice label
Here's the part that's easy to skip past: direct trade isn't just a nicer story to put on a bag. It changes outcomes.
When a farmer knows exactly who's buying their coffee and why, and knows the relationship isn't going anywhere, they can invest differently. They can hold back the best of a harvest for careful processing instead of rushing it to market. They can pass premium pricing straight to the people doing the work, rather than watching it get absorbed by three layers of middlemen along the way. Over time, that builds something a single good harvest can't: a farm and a business that are genuinely stable enough to keep improving.
For us, it means every bag of Belantih coffee we sell isn't a transaction with an anonymous supply chain. It's a continuation of a specific relationship with a specific farm, at a specific point in Bali, that we could point to on a map if you asked us to.
What this means for you, the person drinking it
You might be wondering what any of this has to do with the cup in front of you. Fair question.
It means the coffee you're drinking has a name attached to it, not just a country. It means someone got paid fairly for growing it, not just competitively. And it means when we tell you a story about freshness, or process, or flavour, we're not repeating something from a spec sheet — we're repeating something we heard directly, standing in the place it happened.
We don't think that makes us better than anyone else in coffee. We think it makes us accountable in a way that's harder to fake. When you can't hide behind a broker or a blend, you have to actually stand behind what you're selling.
Where this is going
This is the first in a series where we're going to pull back the curtain a bit more — on the farm itself, on the framework we've helped build across the region to talk about coffee without hiding behind numbers, and on how all of this actually turns into the coffee that shows up at your door.
For now, the short version is this: we didn't go direct because it was efficient. We went direct because it was the only way to actually know what we were putting in your cup — and who made it possible.
Discussing our long term partnership between myself and Belantih Coffee Farm (Pak Wayan Wijaya - farm owner)
Is Coffee in Australia Too Cheap?
There has been a lot of discussion recently about Australia having some of the cheapest coffee in the developed world.
I think there is some truth in that.
Australians have become accustomed to very high-quality coffee at a relatively low price. In many overseas cities, a comparable coffee can cost considerably more. At the same time, Australian cafés are dealing with higher wages, rent, milk, energy and, importantly, much higher green coffee costs.
From my perspective, the discussion shouldn't be about cafés simply charging more.
It should be about value.
Coffee has an extraordinary journey before it reaches the cup. Farmers grow and harvest it, processors manage fermentation and drying, exporters and importers move it around the world, roasters develop it, and finally a trained barista prepares it.
Everyone in that chain needs to remain sustainable.
Australia has built one of the strongest coffee cultures in the world, and I think we should be proud that consumers can still enjoy excellent coffee at accessible prices.
But perhaps we also need to recognise that a well-made cup of coffee has been undervalued for a long time.
The challenge for our industry is not simply to increase prices.
It is to keep improving the quality, service and story behind the coffee so that customers continue to feel they are receiving genuine value.
Good coffee shouldn't necessarily be cheap. It should be worth what you pay for it.